The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required. The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark. Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass. Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment. Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors. However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need. On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.ĭo one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where.

It can be purchased at Radio Shack Stores and other electronic supply places.

It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. Dirt bikes get much more of a chance of corrosion on electrical connectors than street bikes, but the cleaning is about the same:

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